GDE 710

WEEK 7

Research & theory

This week was all about research and theory. We also looked into research methodologies and methods. The main question of inquiry this week was:

How do you approach research methodologies for your academic journey?

Research Methods—Martin Hosken

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The aim is to change the balance of power. Instead of being intimidated by the weight of language and knowledge, I want to approach our relationship to research as a very human process.

Martin Hosken

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Workshop Challenge

CHALLENGE: Choose an object you feel has a story to reveal. Write a 300 word non-fiction text about the object, acknowledging the research you have conducted and the methodologies used to tell its story. Upload an image of object with the title of your written precis onto the ideas wall. Upload a link to your blog onto the ideas wall, with your image and your 300 word referenced precis, and demonstrating your reflection.

Object

The object I chose for this week's challenge was my mom's kohl container, called a surmadani in Urdu. It is a brass object with an ornamental lotus flower like filligree, that forms the 'needle' and stopper of the container. Inside the container is a fine black powder called 'kohl' or 'surma' in Urdu, which is used as a cosmetic similar to everyday eyeliner today. My reason for choosing it was aesthetics really, I just thought it was an interesting looking object. I knew what it was, and have seen my mom use it, but I didn't know anymore than that. So I thought ok, this is something I can learn something about and I'm sure my mom has a story behind it that will help the resarch.

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Research — Primary and Secondary

At first I was a bit unsure how to go about this. Usually I approach research intuitively, without really labelling methodologies and frameworks per se. I engage in the types primary and secondary and also employ quantitative and qualitative methods, but its not like I'm following a systematic approach. My approach usually starts with the basic visual and verbal around a topic and then from there as areas emerge I dwell into more detail and connect with resources and people. For this challenge since the theory was focused on the research methods and methodology, I was a bit stumped. Joseph mentioned still letting the object define how you were going to research it so I started with employing qualitative primary research in the form of an interview with my mom.

The interview was carried out in Urdu, and it was a conversation with her sharing with me that she has used kohl since she was a child. Her mom used to apply it to her and her siblings male and female since they were young. She shared when I was born she would also apply it to my eyes as a child. The containers are brass as this is the type that is prevalent in the subcontinent–India and Pakistan. It's called a 'surmadani' in Urdu and almost everyone has one, especially the women. She uses it because it had medicinal properties and because in the tradition of Islam it was recommended by the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) to use to keep the eyes healthy and to use the pure Ithimid kohl. My mom shared how when she went to Mecca and Medina a few years back before the pandemic she especially bought the pure Ithimid powder which is not available in Canada and that is what is cuurently in this container. 

My mom has Sjogren's, and it affects her eyes in that less tears are produced so sometimes her eyes can get red and itchy. She shared that she bought the Ithimid kohl especially so she could use it in her eyes whenever they become irritated. I asked if it actually works, and she said it does and provides relief more so that the eyedrops she uses. She also really likes eye makeup and how big and wide the eyes look and bright when the kohl outlines them.

From this interview I took away a few angles I could do more secondary research: historical use, medical use for eye health, cosmetic use, container design culture and materials, regions where kohl is used, and religious and cultural significance. 

After the interview I started searching online and started looking at imagery, cultural cosmetic websites, shops to buy, any books on the topic, and papers, and historic archives and artefacts. The secondary research revealed a lot. 

Apparently kohl has been used since ancient Egyptian times. And eye illustrations on sarcophagi and statues, show the prevalence. An ancient medical scroll by an Egyptian 'doctor' has a whole section on recipes and uses of kohl for various eye ailments in the desert. I came across cultural practices of various regions and how different materials were used to make the kohl containers and how they were part of wedding dowries, customs and even rituals. I also interestingly came across an entire debate in the Western world around how kohl is poisonous, because of lead salts, and then a modern study in a toxicology journal investigating the medicinal or poisonous properties of kohl. The study proved that the lead compounds in kohl were in fact not poisonous as when the powder comes in contact with the eye a chemical reaction takes place that converts causes the body to create nitric oxide which triggers an immune response and helps kill off any infection. 

Lastly, I came across an anthropological archeologist who conducted research on kohl containers after she found them on excavation sites. She had an interview online discussing her book Paint it Black, that's where I learned all about the containers and the design culture associated with them.

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300-Word Précis

Here is my 300 word précis on the kohl container—surmadani—my mom owns. I've based it on infomation I gleaned about the objects and its origins and uses from an interview with her. Using tidbits from her answers, I used them as a springboard to research the various topic areas: history, medicinal uses, religious and cultural significance and usage, role in cosmetics and beauty. This précis is the result of all this aforementioned research:

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Kohl—a fine black powder—has been making eyes look bigger and brighter since 3150 BC*[1].

In ancient times kohl was stored in containers of various shapes and sizes ranging from small jars, bottles, tubes, and pots, or larger pouches. Kohl containers have been discovered in Egypt, Levant, Syria, Iran, Africa, Anatolia, and South Asia. Different materials depending on region were used like leather, terracotta, ivory, bone, wood, metal or stone.*[2]

Regardless of the shape or size of the container holding the kohl powder, it is accompanied with a "needle" used to apply the kohl by sandwiching it between the eyelids in a pulling motion from edge to edge.*[3]

Kohl is still used today in many Eastern countries and the tradition is kept alive in Pakistan where the author is from. Kohl containers—called 'surmadanis'—in this region are made of brass, ornamented with a floral motif.

The first written documents about kohl production are found in an Egyptian papyrus—the Ebers Papyrus, dating 1550 BC.*[1] From various paintings, literature and statues it is seen that kohl use in ancient Egypt was primarliy to treat eye ailments rather than for cosmetic reasons. Made from Galena, recent research found that although lead is considered in the west as poisonous. Lead sulphite used in kohl evoked an immune response in the body releasing nitric oxide which helps prevent and treat eye diseases.*[2]

Today, kohl is still used for both medicinal as well as its cosmetic purpose. Traditionally-made kohl is applied to newborn babies to prevent eye infections, and is used by adults who have discomfort in their eyes or simply wish to maintain eye health.*[4]

Kohl can be found in secular, religious, past and present contexts today discussed for it's physical, chemical, archaeological, medical and cosmetic attributes.

[300 words] 

References:
*[1] Şahin, Fatma. “A 'KOHL BOX' FROM THE CILICIAN PLAIN IN THE FRAME OF THE ANALYTICAL AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE. ŞAHİN, F. 2020.” Mediterranean Archaeology and Archaeometry (2020): n. pag. Web.
*[2] Bos, Jolanda. Paint It, Black. A Biography of Kohl Containers. Blikveld Uitgevers, 2019.
*[3] Nasreen, Kausar. Interview. By Nida Khan. 7 March 2022.
*[4] Mahmood, Zafar. (2015). Kohl Use in Antiquity Effects on the Eye. 10.13140/2.1.1380.4326.

Ideas Wall

Here I share my cocontributions to others on the Ideas Wall, and comments left by others on my challenges.

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Final thoughts and reflection

I really enjoyed this week. I got to know so much about my mother and her use of kohl. We got the chance to connect and discuss stories from her culture and from her homeland, Pakistan. I use modern forms of kohl, as a kajal liner but I never knew the origins and rich history of this form of makeup. 

I was intrigued by my mom’s kohl container because it looked like a beautiful and interesting object. I didn’t know I would uncover so much just by getting curious and finding information. On top of that I really enjoyed the execution for the image and title of the piece. I would say I enjoyed it more than the actual writing of the précis itself. I felt like, visually it came together so nicely and was actually informed by all the research that happened for the theory part of it. 

The précis was a factual piece so I kept it formal, I would also have reimagined it as a separate brief where the focus of the article would be more informed by the Primary Qualitative Research in the form of an editorial presented as a story by my mom whom I interviewed. Such an article wouldn't be entirely facts about the object but more of a look into the object from the lens of my mom who owns it and what it means to her and how she feels about what it represents for her.

Thank you for taking the time to read this. 

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Week 6: Noticing the Ignored
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Week 8: Skills & Making

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